The other Gods

Tracing faith in Futaba

By Trishit Banerjee
Additional Reporting | Kato Chihiro
Photographs | Kobayashi Masayuki

In search of faith

Where does one find faith in a town of 7,000 people?

One of the things that is often heard in Futaba is the fact how a town spread across 51 Sq.Kms. was divided into 17 sub-divisions and each of these had their own variations of traditional festivals, dances, etc. So, once we finished speaking to the Chief Priest at Shohatsu Jinja and had hours to go before our photographer Kobayashi could capture the sun set in the mountains, we wondered where else did the people of Futaba pray?

Often when you search for places to visit in a small town such as that of Futaba, there are hardly any pictures or Google reviews available in either English or the local language. However, much to our luck, we discovered several gems in and around the town.

Since the history of the town stretches back to stone age and residents from time to time have taken the effort to record the history around them, several places which would have otherwise been left as footnotes in history have taken a prominent stage in the town's imagination.

Finding the Divine

Shohatsu Jinja

While the origin of the shrine is less known, it is believed to have been established in 1791 (Kansei-era) and worships Ame-no-Minakanushi - the first Goddess to be mentioned in Kojiki (Ancient Japanese chronicle dating back to 712 CE).

Reconstructed in 2019 after a crowdfunding campaign, the Shohatsu Jinja is an important symbol of unity for Futaba.

Shinzan Jinja

Built on the grounds of the Shineha castle, it was known as 'Shineha Daigongen' until the beginning of the Meiji-era in 1868.

Lush bamboo trees on one side make it for a scenic view and starting summer of 2023, it is scheduled to be reopen again.

Down south, near to Kiyotosaku Cave Tombs, one can find a thousand-year plus old cedar tree and an old Kannon temple enshrined in the 9th Century CE.

Inari Jinja

Inari Jinja was built during the reign of the 44th Emperor of Japan in 8th Century CE when a drought had hit the area.

The Governor at that time also planted a cedar tree in the shrine grounds which is now over 1,000 years old and towers at a height of more than 20 m. It is the largest cedar tree in coastal Fukushima.

*The 1,000+ years old Cedar tree (Maeda Osugi), sourced from 'Futaba Town Community Guide'*

*The 1,000+ years old Cedar tree (Maeda Osugi), sourced from 'Futaba Town Community Guide'*

Nagasako Kannondo

Kannon is the Goddess of Mercy in Buddhism. It is a Bodhisattva which means it has chosen to delay its own attainment of enlightenment in order to help others attain. Originated in India as Avalokiteshvara, it is usually a male deity. However, as Buddhism travelled across China and then to Japan, Taoist Goddesses too seem to have got mixed into this leading to the often seen feminine representation.

The Kannon at Nagasako Kannondo was enshrined together with the construction of the temple hall itself in 807 CE (Daido-era)

*Nagasako Kannondo, sourced from 'Futaba Town Community Guide'*

*Nagasako Kannondo, sourced from 'Futaba Town Community Guide'*

While the above places were easily accessbile, there are places worth visiting however have have limited access only due to post-2011 restrictions. One of them is the Hachiman Jinja in the Koriyama area of Futaba town.

During the Tengi-era (mid-11th Century CE), one of the provincial retainers Minamoto no Yoriyoshi visited this area in Futaba to combat some rebels. It is said he prayed to the Hachiman God and won the battle and hence the shrine was established.

*Hachiman Jinja, sourced from 'Cultural Properties of Futaba Town (Shrines and Temples), Vol. 02 (1977)'*

*Hachiman Jinja, sourced from 'Cultural Properties of Futaba Town (Shrines and Temples), Vol. 02 (1977)'*

As we walked, we realised how small elements of history have been preserved. It is these small elements that add up to create the grand moments which we find in our textbooks and regurgitating as public memory.

By the time dusk settled in, the town had a clear message: Futaba too has a story to tell.