Celebrating Life

Chronicling the Shohatsu Jinja

A Divine Beginning

Shohatsu Jinja in Futaba finds its roots in Chiba

When one thinks of the earliest Gods in Japan, it is rare to imagine them as someone who would hide themselves when they came to existence. However, Ame-no-Minakanushi was one such God.

Mentioned in the ancient Japanese chronicle 'Kojiki' as one of the first deities to appear when heaven and earth were created, it is known to have disappeared soon after it completed its duty. It is revered as one of the central deities of the universe, the God of victory and also as the God of Moon's blessings.

The historically important Chiba Shrine in Chiba prefecture too worships this God. The northwestern region of Chiba prefecture (Shimosa province) was also the place where one of Japan's longest surving clans, the Soma clan, finds its roots. The lord of Soma clan was sent from Nagareyama in Shimosa province towards north where he rested in Futaba and Namie and was eventually enshrined as Myoken-Daimyojin in these areas.

However, the Chiba shrine wasn't originally a worshiper of Ame-no-Minakanushi. It was the syncretism of Shintoism and Buddhism that existed in Japan until the beginning of Meiji-era (1868-1912) that the Buddhist God Myoken (Deification of the Pole Star) was often converged with Ame-no-Minakanushi. When the separation of the 2 religions was ordered by the Meiji government, shrines dedicated to Myoken turned towards Ame-no-Minakanushi.

This separation also led to the foundation of Shohatsu Jinja in Futaba in 1791, which changed its name to the current in order to distance itself from the Myoken God.

Much like elsewhere, shrines and temples often are at the centre of a community. Towns and cities have been known to have a shrine or temple at their centre. The same was also true for Shohatsu Jinja which used to be the centre of town until 2011. Some of the old records of the town depict a vibrant townscape with shops lining the street of the shrine.

"It is a spiritual centre for the people of the town", says Chief Priest Takakura who is the 5th generation priest of the shrine.

Shohatsu Jinja however, isn't the only one in the region. There are other Shohatsu Jinja built in neighbouring Soma, Okuma and Iitate towns. These shrines were built as territorial expansions took place under the Soma clan. While the deity enshrined is the same, the scared treasures are different for each one of them. The Shohatsu Jinja in Futaba holds a sword, gold coin and a mirror as its treasures.

'Myōken Bosatsu' by Tosa Hidenobu (Butsuzōzui, 1690)

'Myōken Bosatsu' by Tosa Hidenobu (Butsuzōzui, 1690)

Shohatsu Jinja

Shohatsu Jinja

Futaba in 1920

Shohatsu Jinja

While the townscape has changed in the past 100 years, Shohatsu Jinja has remained long in its current place as visible from the 1920 (Taisho-era) map of Futaba town. The shrine’s iconic roof was built in the Meiji-era (1868-1912) and one can still see it till date.

Shinzan Jinja

The neighbouring Shinzan Jinja too has a long history where it was built on the same grounds as that of Shineha castle. An elementary school is shown right below it on the map however it doesn’t exist anymore.

Shrines are also at the centre of many festivals which are passed down from one generation to another. The first festival at Shohatsu Jinja right around its foundation took place on April 22. Since then, the Spring festival is held annually on April 22 whereas the Autumn festival is held on September 22.

Celebrating a Community

Gosengu

Gosengu refers to the relocation of a deity. It is common for a deity to be taken on a Mikoshi (Portable shrine) around a town while repair work is conducted at the original shrine. Shrine records show pictures of the deity at Shohatsu Jinja being taken around Futaba

Ohamaori

Common to shrines along Japan's Pacific coast, a Mikoshi (Portable shrine) is taken to the sea or a water body as a prayer towards good harvest among others. It is symbolic of a community's relationship with the sea.

Kagura

Kagura translates to 'entertaintment for the Gods'. In Futaba, this often involves wearing a lion mask and performing a ceremonial dance. In the end, people bow to this mask in reverence. With Futaba divided into 17 sub-divisions, each one of them boasts of their own variation of Kagura.

Daruma Ichi

While the other festivals are common to many other shrines across Japan, the Daruma festival is the one which make sit unique. A 300-years old tradition in Futaba, about a 2 m tall Daruma doll weighing about a ton is used in a tug-of-war alongwith other events during the festival.

It is interesting to note that Futaba didn't have its own unique Daruma up until 30 years ago. Since then, this festival has localised itself bringing admirers of the town from across the country to Futaba for this special festival.

One of the other elements of the relationship between the Shohatsu Jinja and the community is the existence of 'Ujikko'. Roughly translated to 'Shrine Parishioners', it is a community which preserves the shrine and passes down its traditions even as the townscape changes.

Background: Futaba in November 2004

The Ujikko community traditionally helps in making of the Shimenawa - a sacred rope at shrines all over Japan. As they are made from bamboo, choosing the right tree and using the right techniques is important. A New Year ritual in Shohatsu Jinja, the older and younger Ujikko members gather to tie a new Shimenawa for the shrine with one generation teaching the other.

Background: Futaba in July 2018

While residents of the area surrounding the shrine are all part of the Ujikko community, there are no restrictions based on your gender or nationality. It is a shared emotion of faith that binds the people and the shrine together.

Background: Futaba in March 2020

It was the Ujikko community that came together to reconstruct the shrine post-2011. Shohatsu Jinja became one of the first structures to be rebuilt in the new Futaba.

When God was finally re-enshrined after close to a decade of evacuation in 2019, it was the first light of reconstruction for many of the town's residents.

That light has since then sparked into a flame of faith and perseverance.

Background: Futaba in February 2023